Reacting to the Tank Man

Imagethief today links to a PBS documentary, “The Tank Man,” which makes for interesting watching. I’d like to respond, for those of you who might be reading.

The China that I see every day is worlds away from the China shown in the film. You could put this down to my living the sheltered life of a foreign student, but in my day-to-day experience, Beijingers are overwhelmingly positive about what is going on in the city and country as a whole. Naturally, the taxi drivers complain about the traffic, but I can only recall one driver who voiced full-on complaints about government priorities: in his view, the Olympics are a vast waste of money that would be better invested in the needs of the laobaixing, or common people. It is worth noting that he didn’t have a problem with the government itself, merely with some of its policies — when I do hear complaints, this is a common theme.

The documentary asserts that the general contentment I see is the result of a ‘deal with the devil’ made by the Chinese people, giving up their political voice in exchange for economic gains. My experience makes me think that the reality is, as in most circumstances, tinged with shades of grey. Certainly, to suggest that the Chinese people somehow ‘gave up’ their political rights in 1989 is simply laughable. I would be very interested to see proof that Chinese people between 1949 and 1989 somehow enjoyed more ‘freedom’ than Chinese people in 2006.

Internet censorship and lack of freedom of the Chinese press have made headlines in the Western mainstream media. These are problems, but the Chinese people have a proud history of finding their way around restrictions of all kinds. Banned books are openly for sale on the street in a way that Soviet samizdat could never have been. On the internet, authorities trying to clamp down have to deal with a language rich in puns and word associations. Yes, there are more than 30,000 ‘internet cops’ employed by the Chinese government and using the latest censorship technology. But there are also more than 110 million internet users in China, and that number is growing every day. I see no way that the government can prevent political discussion if people want it to happen.

And yes, I think that people will want this discussion to happen. As a society, the Chinese have a legendary passion for education. The documentary notes that most of China’s migrant workers choose to spend what little money they make on schooling for their children. As the developing economy gives people more money to invest in education, I think it is inevitable that debate will flourish. Economic development will lead to political involvement, not because people with their basic needs fulfilled will be able to participate, but because they, as educated citizens, will want to.

At the risk of being painted a Pinko Apologist — or worse, a Pinko Apologist with Chinese Characteristics — I will make two sweeping generalisations: Firstly, that since 1989, the Chinese government has done its people more good than harm; and secondly, that increasingly what is good for the Communist Party is good for the Chinese people.

As with any sweeping generalisation, these statements will not be true in every case. However, in defence of the first point, I stand by my assertion that Chinese people today have more freedom than they did before 1989. As for the second point, for many of China’s largest problems the goals of the Party and everyday people seem to be miraculously aligned (motivations are beside the point). A stable, prosperous, and clean countryside would be welcomed by Party and peasants alike. Wen Jiabao’s recent speech at the National People’s Congress suggests that for the time being, and 17 years after the Chinese ‘gave away their freedom’, the government is showing reluctant signs of listening to the voices of its people.

Update: The documentary claims that an internet user in China doing a Google image search for ‘Tiananmen Square’ will find no pictures of the Tank Man. This statement is misleading. If the search is done (in English) from the main Google.com page, many Tank Man pictures will turn up. It is only if the search is done on Google’s recently launched hosted-in-China service, Google.cn, that these pictures are not returned in the results. What is included, however, is this sentence: “据当地法律法规和政策,部分搜索结果未予显示” — ‘In accordance with local laws regulations and policies, some search results are not shown’. Searching in Chinese for “天安门” (Tiananmen) on both Google.com and Google.cn gives results equivalent to an English search, though with fewer Tank Man pictures. This is less a symptom of Chinese censorship than of the stronger association made outside of China between the words ‘Tiananmen Square’ and the 1989 massacre.

Update 2: It seems that I painted too rosy a picture of a Google.com image search for 天安门, since the results I got were apparently some kind of fluke. Several subsequent tests on several different computers have thrown up lots of image-not-found icons in place of Tank Man.

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Sandstorm

An early morning ride to the Summer Palace was marred by the remnants of the worst sandstorm I’ve seen in a year and half. I felt particular sympathy for the men engaged in the largely futile task of sweeping sand off the streets with large brooms. Their work succeeded in liberating the sand for a few seconds, creating magnificent clouds — which then settled back down onto the streets.

As of the early afternoon, most things remain a shade of orange-brown.

I passed by the Chinese Communist Party’s Central Party School on the way, which looked all the more unfortunate in the morning light for having had the trees that line its entrance brutally pruned since my last visit.

Party School Before
Before
Party School After
After
Sandy Xiali Sandsweepers
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A Beijing commute

I’ve seen photos of bicycle commutes from around the world, and felt that it was time to make my contribution. My commute is a short one — 15 minutes each way on a normal day. The pollution today was terrible, so I decided to take it very slowly. That had the advantage of making it easier to take photos. The commute is hardly as impressive or beautiful as others I’ve seen, but I hope it’s interesting in its own way. I decided to start taking pictures 5 minutes in, which meant I didn’t get photos of my neighbourhood on the way out. The photos at the end, taken on the way back, fill in these missing bits.

Here we go…

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A spring day in Beijing

As seen yesterday morning under “Current Conditions” on Weather Underground’s Beijing forecast:

13C Light Rain Smoke

As of this posting, the Light Rain has left us, but the Smoke remains.

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Ghosts of tourism past

If second-tier Asian tourist attractions are sometimes creepy and forlorn, China’s contributions excel in creating a mood of melancholy creakiness. I think I first became aware of this when visiting the original site of the Harbin Ice Festival, a small park in the city centre. The bulk of the festival has moved across the river and turned into a gloriously gaudy mini-Disneyland-of-ice that really has to be seen to be believed — but the original location is still home to a nearly deserted and rather shoddy display of ice-animals, aircraft carriers, and submarines.

I noticed this phenomenon again on a much larger scale at the Chinese National Aviation Museum, located on a particularly dusty strip of land outside of Beijing’s North Sixth Ring Road. The complex is huge, looking rather like a derelict James Bond set, and housing more F-6 fighters (Chinese-made MiG-19s) than anyone is likely ever to want to see. It is also home to a massive display hangar built into the side of a mountain, and a giant aviation graveyard containing crashed and/or rusting old trainers, bombers, fighters, transports and helicopters, Liberation jeeps, mobile radar stations, missiles, and the private aircraft of Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai. All of this is nicely complemented by a deserted children’s merry-go-round near the museum’s entrance. The visit took place a few weeks ago, just before the spring weather started moving in.

If you’re reading this on the main page, you can see more photos by clicking the “read the rest” link.

F-6 Takeoff Tiananmen Troops

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Heartwarming taxes

I was delighted to read on Imagethief today that China is imposing a 5% consumption tax on disposable chopsticks and other products. This delight stems from several factors, not the least of which is that other people read the China Daily so I don’t have to. I wholeheartedly support the Chinese government’s new taxes, which will hopefully remove the scourge of low-grade splintery chopsticks from local eateries and fingers. Thankfully, living in landlocked Beijing, I am safely insulated from the new taxes on luxury yachts.

It was explained to me last year that disposable chopsticks are a relatively recent addition to the Chinese restaurant scene, with the Japanese to thank for their introduction. Now we are safe from Japanese influences, but are at the mercy of the dishwashers at 成都小吃, the ubiquitous and grungy Sichuan fast food joint.

Update: As Imagethief helpfully points out, the solution to the now-inevitable dishwashing problems — and disposable chopsticks in general — is to BYO. A great post at Bingfeng Teahouse has more.

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Almost, but not quite

For a bit of extracurricular reading practice, I recently bought a Chinese copy of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy by Douglas Adams. It is a faithful translation of the original, with a few notable exceptions. Of course, “Hey, you sass that hoopy Ford Prefect? There’s a frood who really knows where his towel is,” does not exactly lend itself to easy translation. In this case, the translators chose to replace “sass”, “frood”, and “hoopy” with actual words, instead of the transliterations used for names and places — with the sole exception of the surname “Prefect”.

As such, the above phrase is translated as, “嘿,你碰过那个同行的福特·长官吗?那可是个真正知道自己的毛巾在哪里的好搭档” (Hei! Ni pengguo nege tonghang de Fute Zhangguan ma? Na ke shi ge zhenzheng zhidao ziji de maojin zai nali de hao dadang), which could be translated back into English as, “Hey, have you run into that fellow-tradesman Ford Prefect? There is a partner who really knows where his towel is.” (see update below)

Other sentences survive intact: “‘福特!’ 他说,’外面有无数只猴子想要进来和咱们讨论他们创作的剧本《哈姆雷特》’ ” (“Fute!” ta shuo, “waimian you wushu zhi houzi yao jin lai he zanmen taolun tamen chuangzuo de juben ‘Hamuleite’”) is an appropriate rendition of “‘Ford!’ he said, ‘there’s an infinite number of monkeys outside who want to talk to us about this script for Hamlet they’ve worked out.’”.

Unfortunately, some phrases didn’t make it through translation unscathed. Some have meanings which are almost, but not quite, entirely unlike their originals. Given the generally high quality of the translation despite the cultural gaps faced in translating a book like this, I must first extend my sincere thanks and congratulations to translator Xu Baike and the kind people at the Sichuan Science and Technology Press. It is unfortunate, however, that one of the book’s most quotable lines is one of the translation’s few real casualties.

“So long, and thanks for all the fish” is translated as “再见了所有鱼类,感谢你们” (Zaijian le suoyou de yulei, ganxie nimen), meaning “So long to all the fish, we thank you”. I blame the fuzziness of English prepositions and the tragic shortage of human-fed acrobatic dolphins in China.

Update: “Colleague” is a much less awkward translation than “fellow-tradesman”, and “partner” should be prefaced by the word “good”.

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Winter, of course

Winter in Beijing is deceptively cold. An absolute minimum of about -10 Celsius may not sound too bad to true cold-weather veterans, but it discounts the effect of the gale-force Siberian winds I encounter riding to and from my university; by some quirk of meteorology, I run into headwinds in both directions. I’m not sure if the psychological factor of knowing the wind has just blown in from Krasnoyarsk by way of Ulaanbaatar plays any part in it, but it does feel colder than should reasonably be expected.

The dodgy centralised heating system in my apartment over which I have absolutely no control doesn’t help, though it adds an element of surprise to my daily routine. It neatly encompasses all that is wrong with the idea of a command economy, providing either precisely the wrong service at precisely the wrong time, or going into Stakhanovite heating overdrive and turning my apartment into a blast furnace, even with all windows open, on the coldest days of winter.

In the face of the cold and astonishingly monochromatic winter, it helps to remember that there are beautiful times and places in this city. While going through some older files today, I rediscovered a small video I took last October while riding around the Houhai area. Nothing much, just a pleasant reminder of greener times.

A Houhai Scene
(click to play – 1.8MB QuickTime movie)

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Beijing fireworks

On Chinese New Year’s Eve, I was fortunate to be invited to stay at the home of a Chinese friend of mine in Eastern Beijing. In preparation for the holiday, his family had bought a veritable arsenal of fireworks, which we all proceeded to set alight with little regard for personal safety. I shot two videos, which nicely capture the feeling of the evening.

The first shows another friend dropping a rather large explosive the wrong way down the firing tube. Listen for the “Aiyo!” shortly after the first explosion, an exclamation filled with the certainty of impending disaster.

Video 1 (11.5MB MPEG)

The second was taken several hours later, at one minute before midnight, when the whole city seemed to be exploding.

Video 2 (15.4MB MPEG)

The videos are large, but I have been unable to satisfactorily compress them. If there is enough demand, I will try again.

Related photos at Imagethief.

Update: There is not enough demand.

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Neighbour’s Mutterings

I’ve been travelling for most of the last month and a half (pictures and such will most likely follow), but am now back in my Beijing apartment where my crazy neighbour was shouting even more than usual last night. In addition to the standard ranting and cussing at someone who’s not there, she repeatedly shouted one word for about ten minutes. As far as I could make out, she was yelling “Liangzi! Liangzi! Liangzi!”, fourth tone on the first syllable and third on the second. This would be written as 量子, translating as “quantum”. It is possible that I didn’t hear her clearly through the wall, but it would be so much more interesting to think that I did.

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